Shadow Mountain Lake, Colorado. Sept., 2014. (good rainbow trout right off this dock fyi.. ;-))
Here is a semi complete chronological, categorized list of the repairs and renovations that I have done or had done on this boat, ( I will go into details on each aspect/category of the renovation in future postings):
FYI: I have been doing all of the following, not blogging, since I got the boat. It has been a massive project and totally worth it.
INITIAL PURCHASE, ESTABLISH FUNCTION AND FLOATABILITY:
- Take Boat to Local Mechanic after purchase to test 1976 Johnson 115hp motor, install controls, cables, etc and make water ready.:
- Nov, 2013: test run on Chatfield Reservior, control box breaks at full throttle, call mechanic from the middle of the lake, limp back to the dock. Boat out of the water for 7 months until relaunch in June of 2014.
- Boat floats, runs steady, no major, obvious leaks.
- First ever trailer, launch and retrieve of a boat off a ramp.
- Jan 2014: Begin gutting, cleaning, and removing everything from the interior of the boat.
- Remove 2 auxillary 11.5 gal gas tanks above deck.
- Remove sun toasted passenger chair/bench and aft jumper seats.
- Remove and clean 30+yr old bimini and full enclosure tops.
- Remove rotten 94 qt ice chest and fasteners.
- Remove squirrel, rat, hornet, etc nests.
- Scrub gas oil dried sludge from aft deck.
- Remove bilge pump.
- Remove rotten gas/water separator.
- Remove Hydraulic Trim Tab Pump, Lines, and Trim Tabs.
- Remove below deck aluminum 40 gal gas tank.
- Remove deck hatches.
- Remove Motor: 4 cylendar 115hp Motor and mount on home made rolling mount.
- Remove all Teak trim.
- Remove glove compartment from dual console.
- Remove old Lowrance fish finder.
- Remove old compass.
- Remove ancient marine radio.
- Chase all electrical lines and label.
- Cut open and gut all wood from transom.
- Boat to Fiberglass Expert for transom replacement.
- Prep Transom for Motor remount and other structural thru hull fittings with over size drilled and filled epoxy mount holes.
- Sand and treat all teak trim fittings over time in the sun.
- Trade 115hp 2 stroke, 4 cylendar Johnson motor for rebuilt 225hp 2 stroke, 6 cylendar Evinrude motor. Add aluminum angle iron stock to inner transom to support motor.
- Remove all rotten deck ports/hatches, rebed and replace.
- Treat/Seal all below deck and wet areas with penetrating epoxy and seal with deck paint: bilge, inner stringers inside below deck compartments, inside of transom etc.
- Repair all bimini and full enclosure fabrics and snaps.
- Replace all fasteners/fittings with bronze.
- Troubleshoot Leaks: ReSeal Transom with vacuum assisted penetrating epoxy and thickened epoxy.
- Clean and reinstall two 11.5 gal auxilliary gas tanks, one 12 gal temporary on deck tank, fuel hoses with manual 4 way switch.
- Troubleshoot Motor Issues:
- June 30th: Naming ceremony and launch day, shift cable breaks, motor around marina in reverse.
- July and Aug 29014: Hard to start and weak idle:
- all kinds of odd motor behavior with various mystical remedies.
- replace fuel lines and VRO fuel pump. A little better...
- Sept 2014 (early): Motor tested by third party before vacation trip for a week:
- no starboard thermostat
- one failed power pack = running on 3 cylendars
- rejet carbs
- relink and synch
- 6 cylendars way better but still not right.
- Sept 2014 (late): Install inductive tachometer, test 15 and 17p props.
- Oct 2014: Run with cover off, discover running half throttle. WTF?
- Oct 2014: Back to third party: clean and lube control box and linkage, full throttle = happiness. 17p prop best, reaches 5200+ rpm at WOT, 40 mph at 5280ft altitude on gps.
- Oct 2014: Motor requires full idle throttle and full choke to start hot or cold. When boat is loaded (to max) with 5 to 7 people and dog, shot out of the hole to full plane with full choke approaching WOT from low speeds. Max speed 40mph on gps at plane with motor trimmed out. Analysis: motor requires the right rpms to get WOT flowing with correct gas input/intake. Heavy load slows rpms in water at each throttle position, so choke dumps fuel into carbs to get the blast needed to fuel the carbs to get proper combustion/power. Solutions: smaller/faster prop, 15p, gets faster rpms at each throttle position or change jets to richer.
- Factory Jet Specs, Sea Level:
- Idle: 48
- Mid: 14
- Main: 62D
- Original Purchase Jetting, 6 carbs:
- Idle: 33
- Mid: 14
- Main: 62D
- Rejet after Analysis in Sept.:
- Idle: 43
- Mid: 14
- Main: 60D
- Analysis: Idle Jet is an air jet only, so choke equals making richer (choking off air). Possible future adjustment means going with smaller idle Jet/less air. Back to 33? Maybe they had it right to begin with. It did start easily without choke before the rejet.
- Spark plugs are generally black and oily with deposits = rich. Not tested after WOT.
- Electronics, Guages, etc.:
- Dashboard gauges and indicators all need to be rewired and troubleshot: Winter of 2015
- Installed a new fuel gauge sending unit in both 11.5 gal auxilliary tanks.
- Wired a temporary fuel gauge with on/off toggle to read either aux fuel tank by just swapping wires from each tank to the gauge..
- Wired temporary manual automatic bilge pump with switch to underside of splash well.
- Wired temporary inductive tachometer to spark plug wire on motor, grounded, mounted with velcro to inside of splashwell, visible from captains chair.
TRAILER: 1981 Caulkins, roller trailer
- August 2014 (early): Renovate trailer for mountain trips.
- add: drum brakes, wiring, submergeable led lights, gate connection, trailer battery, emergency release auto lock, and internal truck cab digital controller.
- Prime with rustoleum rust restorer, coat with almond color water corrosion resistant enamel paint. Hand sprayed for special effects.
DECALS:
- Nov. 2014: Remove old, faded decals. Hand design original style, replica decals and print on reflective vinyl for "like new" restoration.
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